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air - getting airborne
aerial - airborne maneuver
amped - charged up - stoked - fired
backdoor - to pull into a tube from behind the peak
bail - to abandon a board - jump off - usually without regard to the board's future
bake - a closeout
bashing - body surfing
boost - getting airborne off the lip
brah - from bruddah, Hawaiian pidgin for brother
bro - a buddy or friend
bucket - helmet
bump - a swell
bumps - the build-up of wax on a surfboard deck
carve up - do lots of skillful moves on a board
cheater five - five toes on the nose - keep your weight back on the board to maintain trim and speed, squat down and extend one foot forward
clucked - afraid, intimidated by the wave
crew - a group of surfers defined by break or area
dogging - going backside in the pit
drop - as in dropping from the crest of the wave to the pit
dropping in - catching a wave that is already occupied ... taking off on the shoulder while someone is taking off deeper
drop in late - catching the steepest part of a wave
dune - a big peaky wave
falls - the pitching lip of the wave - don't get sucked into this
fan - a fan of spray off a turn such as a water skier throws
fluff - spray off the lip
falls - top of the wave pitches out and throws a waterfall shoreward.
frigged - snaked
fully - with commitment and intensity
gash - very sharp turn
gnarly - awesome and intimidating
go vertical - make a sharp upward movement on a wave
going off - a break under optimum conditions
gouge - sharp, fast turn
gremmies - grem or gremmie is short for gremlin - Sixties US term for young, possibly or probably mischievous surfer, pre-adolescent surfer
green room - the space inside the tube wave
grommet - adolescent surfer
gunned - undergunned or overgunned refers to the size of your board in relation to wave conditions
hiddie - from hideous, intense
hoot - howling and yelping approval and encouragement to buddies
jag - retreat after getting worked
launched - be thrown in the air (usually from a gnarly wipeout)
nipped - nipples rubbed raw by board or suit
noodle - exhausted, overall condition or specific as in "noodle armed"
pop - kickout
pit - the hollowest portion of a breaking wave
pitched - be thrown in the air
pitted - being in the pit of the wave
pearl - to go pearl diving, the nose of you board submerges and usually the wave pushes the rest of the board over the nose, you too
poser - a non-surfer playing the role of a surfer
pucker factor - the effect an intimidating wave has on ones ability to remain relaxed
puff - a spitting wave
pumping - above average large swell
quiver - a surfer's collection of boards, a board bag that holds several boards
rip - to surf to the height of one's abilities
room - inside a large barrel
schlong - thick, long, old style single-fin surfboard
squid - unlikeable individual
scab - a reef or rock
scabbed - getting damaged by a reef or rock
shoot the tube - surf through the tube
shred - ability to execute rapid repeated turns - shortboard term
sick - excellent, top notch - describing a surfer, stunt, maneuver or conditions
sideslip - when your board stops tracking forwards and moves sideways
slam the lip - bounce off the lip as it begins to pitch
slash - cutback
snake - paddling around behind someone who is in position and stealing their wave. Effectively the snake is taking ownership of the wave by being the closest rider to the breaking portion of the wave.
stink-eye - hard, cold, menacing stare
stoked - geared up, wound up, full of enthusiasm
stylie - with good form - with grace
surfer's knots - large bumps on the tops of feet and on knees caused by callusing where one continuously contacts a board
stuffed - getting driven under the water by a wave coming down on you
swish - a meek or fearful surfer
tasty - really great
thrashed - when a wave lays a beating on you
throwing tail - sliding the tail in a turn, breaking the grip of the fins
tow-ins - getting towed into waves that are too large to paddle into
trim - adjusting your position on a board so that it planes, and achieves its maximum speed
tube - a wave that forms a tube or pipe shape
waffling - rapidly working the board back and forth
wannabe - wan-na-be, someone who wants to be
wax - paraffin + colour + scent + additives to make it apply at specific temperatures. Used on deck of boards for traction
wipe out - a fall, particularly a spectacular fall
worked, getting - the action a wave plays on you. It feels like being in a large washing machine
Types of Boards
shortboard - shortboards are the most common, they range in length from 5' to 7'6", and tend to be used for high-performance contest-style surfing. Shortboards usually have pointed noses and three fins, although other configurations are common. A shortboard sacrifices paddling and floatation for the sake of performance.
longboard - longboards are usually over 9' in length. Because of their size they are easier to paddle and get into waves sooner. On the downside, they are less maneuverable and can get pretty unwieldy in steep waves.
bodyboard - a.k.a. boogie boards, sponge, a paipoboard modified in 1971 by Tom Morey to ride dangerous shallow reefs safely. Lay prone and augment with swim-fins. *Never call a true bodyboarder a "boogieboarder" or refer to his board as a "boogieboard," this mostly likely will incite a fight
 Brett's Surf Boards
Brett's got four surfboards that he rides. Three are Becker Surfboards, a 7'10" Becker, a 7'6" Becker and a 9'6' Becker Long Boy. One is an Andy Johnston design out of Hawaii, which is a 7'4" Johnston surfboard that was shaped by his friend Andy Johnston.
Brett and Surfing
Been surfing long? Yeah, since he was 8 years old
Places he's surfed - Australia, Hawaii, Baja California, California
Fave place to surf - Kauai, Hawaii
Biggest Wave? - In Puerto Escondido. 18 foot to 20 foot high from the back of the wave!
Hanalei Surf Stones...
Check out these beautiful surf stones carved from marble. They promote large surf, travel and adventure. Go visit Dave's page!
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| May . 9 . 08 |
I'm doing the best I can without you, Libby. -- Ned Logan
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New Movie Release Dates
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Here are the release dates for "Life Before Her Eyes" with Brett, Uma Thurman, and Evan Rachel Wood.
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SPOTLIGHT ON ... The Replacements
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Find out what it was like to work with Gene Hackman, Keanu Reeves and play a pro football player...
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Have you seen the latest update to the site? If you're not sure, check it out here.
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